My first eight-thousander - Broad Peak 8051m
High altitude mountaineering has never been in my focus. I can't say exactly why not. I have been more interested in the more difficult routes on big walls and less high mountains. Lately, my curiosity has grown. I wanted to know how my body works above 8000 meters. That was the first goal. Then I wanted to experience what it's like on commercial expeditions. I've never experienced that before: the crowds at the summit of Everest, the traffic jams, and the crowded routes. Is it really that bad? I wanted to make up my own mind.
That's why I traveled to Pakistan to Broad Peak in June 2019. In total, I traveled with a group of 14 people and during seven weeks. The region is simply incredible. On the way to the base camp you pass so many beautiful mountains. With each one you think, I should go up there, and there too! Countless possibilities.
I was then very happy when the acclimatization was completed and it finally started. We could set off in the direction of the summit. We started at 7 pm at about 7000 meters. At daybreak, the goal was slowly but surely visible, the last 200 meters! I was lucky to be alone on the summit for half an hour. The view was fantastic, I could see as far as Nanga Parbat. Almost the whole Karakorum lay below me.
Now I'm back in the canton of Uri. It was a cool project. My body and especially my head worked well. I was able to make clear and conscious decisions. That was important for me. From a mountaineering point of view, it was to be expected that I would have no problems. And so it was. For example, I didn't take an ice axe with me to the summit, and I didn't need one. I think that says it all!
Regarding the many people, I can only say that some have no business being up there. Personally, however, they have not bothered me, I knew what I was getting into. In mountaineering, our highest good is that everyone can do what he wants.
The high altitude mountaineering was cool and for the moment also okay. But now I'm interested in mountains again, which are much lower than 8000 meters.
Dear greetings
Dani