Solo speed record on the Swiss Salbit

Dani Arnold climbs all three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in one piece in under 10 hours - alone and faster than anyone ever has before.

The Salbitschijen (2985m) in the canton of Uri makes mountaineers' hearts beat faster. Its ridges are among the most beautiful granite tours in Switzerland. While the east ridge has moderate difficulties (up to 5a), the south and west ridge, despite their popularity, are reserved for experienced alpinists due to their difficulty and length. The mountain guide and professional climber Dani Arnold from Uri started early in the morning on June 11 from the Salbit hut at 2105m to tackle first the south ridge, then the west ridge and finally the east ridge in one piece - alone. Exactly 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds later, he re-entered the SAC hut, tired but with a big smile on his face. No faster ascent of the three ridges is known. 

With wet fingers on the last ridge

The three ridges together add up to over 1500 meters of climbing and about 70 pitches in alpine terrain, with maximum difficulties up to 6b. Each ridge in itself represents a full day's climb for most rope teams. The routes do not lead directly upwards but include several traverses and short descents. They require a lot of experience in route finding and especially in handling the rope, which the 39-year-old carried with him for these passages. Six times, the professional mountaineer switched back and forth between mountaineering and climbing shoes in order to have the optimal footwear on his feet for the terrain to be mastered. There was still a lot of snow on the descent from the summit. On the one hand, this had a positive effect on the pace, but also required additional concentration in order not to get completely soaked for the next climbing sections. However, this is exactly what happened to him on the second descent, when snow got into the magnesium bag he was carrying. So the climber's fingers had to do without the hold-giving powder on the last of the three ridges. "That was careless of me. But fortunately I had saved the easiest ridge for the end with the east ridge."

The circle closes

Dani Arnold is no stranger to the world of mountain sports. In 2011, he made international headlines for the first time when he beat the then record time on the Eiger North Face. Records followed on all six major north faces of the Alps: Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Grosse Zinne, Piz Badile and Petit Dru. But the sought-after lecturer has an even longer history with the Salbit. In 2010, Dani Arnold climbed the West Ridge for the first time solo and in record time. The ascent received a lot of attention in the scene and marked the beginning of his professional career.

Alpinist: Dani Arnold

Photo/Film: Matthias Lüscher

You can find out more about Dani Arnold at www.daniarnold.ch or on facebook and Instagram.