2h 04min Grandes Jorasses

Done!

I have achieved my very big dream of climbing the three big north faces in the Alps alone and fast. The goal has been floating in my head for years. Every climber is fascinated by the three big walls and knows the "last big problems of the Alps".

It all started with the north face of the Eiger and now the project on the Grandes Jorasses has come full circle.

The preparations, the training and the mental challenge were not too big at the Eiger and Matterhorn, to be honest. Sure, it wasn't easy, but somehow I just did it.

With the Grandes Jorasses it was a bit different. It is certainly also because the starting point is in Chamonix (F) and therefore a little further away. It is more difficult to estimate how the conditions are. In addition, the wall is only good to climb in high summer. There are also years when the conditions never fit. Last year I was very close to try it. Something wasn't right, though, and I didn't go. But my desire was even greater to try again in the summer of 2018. I also have to say that it took that time. My technique and tactics have improved significantly over the years.

That it has now worked, makes me of course deeply satisfied and happy. Especially that I have done it exactly as I imagined and wished, makes me particularly proud now. That means, reduce everything to the minimum. Whereas on the Eiger I took a 50 meter rope, on the Matterhorn it was only about five meters and now? No rope, no climbing harness and not a single carabiner I have taken with me on this 1200 m high wall!

Of course, this is associated with very great dangers, I don't want to play that down at all and I was 100 percent aware of that. I prepared myself absolutely seriously and with the greatest caution for the action. Only in this way was it possible to set this new record. The record time is of course very important now. But for me it is secondary. I enjoyed climbing and did not feel insecure for a second. There are not many days like this, I am aware of that. That's why my joy about this project is so great. It's always worth fighting for your dreams, never giving up and always keeping at it.

I would like to thank everyone who has supported me.

Good time and dear greetings
Dani

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"Uristier" (WI6+/M8) - Schöllenen Gorge, Andermatt

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Out of the Dark