Knights of the coconut

It's been a long time since I climbed the route Flying Circus and the Breitwangfluh on sight. Before the Eiger speed ascent, before the winter ascent of Cerro Torre and long before the Matterhorn speed ascent. But every time it is a great pleasure to climb up there. The routes are simply world class!

Last week I managed another great line with the "Knight of the Coconut M12". Many people told me that the Breitwangfluh does not have good ice conditions. Since I was away for a longer time I couldn't estimate that, but I couldn't quite imagine it either. So my brother Mario and I set off, I wanted to get a picture of the whole thing myself. However, we were aware that we might not be able to climb anything and accordingly our ambitions were small. It looked but much better than many said, clear it did not have as much ice as in other years, but something cool climbing you can certainly.

Now Mario and I were standing at the entrance of Knight of the Coconut, looking for signs or indications of not getting on. Because we had expected it so. But we just didn't find anything negative and so I climbed through the first pitch. However, I could not climb it without falling. But no matter. The key pitch went a little better, but also not without a fall. The third pitch I found still quite difficult for M9. Mario also found it not really pleasant to climb all pitches in such a large roof after and it was now and then a curse word in the grotto to hear!

I was impressed by the super route. Sure the rock is not always top. But on the whole quite ok. My respect to Robert Jasper, who did not put any drill hooks and climbed in the stalk through the steep roof as the first. Hats off!

Of course, I really wanted to climb the route without falling. After two days at home, I started this time with Thomas Senf in the route. This time I knew where the right squats were and we climbed to the end. Very happy and tired we congratulated each other and went home satisfied.

Two days later we went up again to photograph and film, this time Nicolas Hojak was with us in addition to Thomas Senf.

Many thanks to Mario,Thomas, Nicolas for securing and the good support.

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Swiss Nose: First ascent:March 14-17

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Piz Badile 3308m