Ice climbing- Free Solo- 1h 03min

Beta Block Super WI7 

Photos: Valentin Luthiger

Why did I do that? Climbing one of the most difficult and dangerous routes in the Alps without a rope and so fast?

That's difficult to answer and I still don't know exactly a few days later. But what is certain is that it was my great goal and a dream to do this one day. I don't want to downplay the risk and the great danger, I also love my life. But I also love my dreams and ideas. And that's why it was important for me and I'm proud of it. Period.

I have never climbed this route. The conditions must be perfect. There are many winters when there is too little water or it flows over this wall in the wrong place. Then it is impossible to climb the route. But on December 24, 2017, everything was as it should be. With the photographer I walked up to Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg. Afterwards I started climbing alone. Always with the possibility to turn back or to abort. For me it is very important to always have this option. I try to postpone for as long as possible the point where there is only one way to go - up. But then it was time: in the key pitch, at this approx. 35 meter freestanding ice pillar was a small overhang in the middle! Carefully hit both ice tools higher and then stand with the crampons on the outermost icicles. From this point on, it was clear that there was no way back. It would have been too risky. But it was also not a question for me, I felt good and continued to climb to the end of the wall. On the almost 300 meters I had to be very concentrated, not "only" not to fall down. When climbing without a rope, no careless mistake should happen. For example, how many times did I drop an ice tool due to carelessness? This would be absolutely fatal in this situation.

So it was also not important how fast I got to the top. I simply couldn't make any mistakes. That was absolutely the most important thing for me.

In free solo climbing, you don't wear a harness and you don't use belay devices. To get back down I had taken a small backpack, in it was a rope, harness, carabiners and ice screws.

For me, this project has a very big significance. I love the ice. It's not just another record for me, but an absolute highlight. I have realized one of my very big dreams. The world hasn't changed because of it, of course. My life and my joy for the mountains is still the same. And that's a good thing, because it's all about being healthy, happy and satisfied!

I wish everyone a good winter and lots of fun in the mountains.
Dani Arnold

Report in english form planet mountain:
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/dani-arnold-free-solo-climbs-beta-block-super-icefall-up-breitwangfluh-in-switzerland.html