Anubis (Scotland)
Dani Arnold does not get wrapped up and repeats "Anubis" on Ben Nevis in winter. In ancient Greek mythology, the black dog Anubis represents mummification and the rites of the dead, but for lovers of extremely difficult climbs, the name is firmly associated with a serious route in Scotland. In 2010, Scotsman Dave MacLeod climbed the gritty line for the first time in the winter, having first climbed it in the summer. Dani Arnold has already been able to climb a test piece by MacLeod with "The Hurting" and, after a fierce battle, now secures the first repeat of perhaps the most difficult mixed route in the British Isles.
"There are places that are always worth returning to. One of them is Scotland. At the end of January 2016, I was there with my brothers Mario and Matthias for winter mountaineering. On one day I tried to climb the route "Anubis", which so far had not received a repeat. The route has no bolts, which means that every belay has to be done by yourself: with slings, wedges, friends and hexentrics (clamping devices) "Anubis" can be belayed, but in any case you must not fall in the wrong place. Normally, Scottish mixed routes climbed in the summer are not extremely difficult - unlike the winter ascent. "Anubis", on the other hand, could not be repeated even in summer and is a very ambitious route with a rating of E8/6c (French: 8a+; UIAA: 10-). Anyone who has ever dared to climb this grade with traditional protection knows what that means.
Unfortunately, I fell in the key passage. I tried again right away and was able to climb this terrific line almost to the end. A broken out hook unfortunately prevented me from climbing through my most difficult mixed route. After that it got too warm and another attempt was unfortunately impossible. I resigned myself to the fact that there would probably be no more attempt this year, changed continents and flew to Canada.
Immediately after returning to Switzerland, I checked the weather for Scotland again. Low temperatures, light snowfall and wind! Still quite battered from my intense trip, however, I didn't know if it would make sense or not. After a month and a half of mixed climbing, however, I was still motivated and decided to try again. This time my friend Lukas Hinterberger, a young and talented Swiss climber, was with me as my rope partner.
It was one of the perfect days. In the first attempt I fell again in the roof, but then my crampons and ice tools got stuck on the small ledges even on the steepest parts and I climbed my most difficult mixed route so far.
After the successful ascent, Lukas and I enjoy the evening atmosphere at the summit, the sun shimmers through the fog and all the walls are covered in white snow like in a fairy tale. I was overjoyed and also a little proud to have climbed this extraordinary route. Now spring can come..."
Thanks to Mario, Matthias and Lukas
Dani
