Salbit west ridge (1h 35min)
My goal to climb the Salbit West Ridge alone and fast, I had for a long time. But until it finally worked out, it took some time. Three times I had climbed the whole ridge. Mostly with my girlfriend. Last year I climbed the whole thing alone once, but without looking exactly at the time. It was a super experience for me personally, it was a lot of fun to just climb and never have had a tricky situation anywhere. After about 2.5 hours I was on the summit needle.
I quickly realized that it would go a lot faster. After the first successful attempt, I certainly stood at the entry three more times to try it faster. Each time, however, something was not right for me. Once the weather was too uncertain, another time there were too many people on the mountain, etc.... But also this experience of returning unfulfilled was important. But I never lost faith in the right moment.
On July 1, 2010, the time had come. The night before, I ran up to the bivouac. To my amazement, there were no other people up there. Despite the new suspension bridge.
In the morning I ran the 10 minutes to the entry. Everything was quiet, the weather was suitable and I could concentrate better and better. All the doubts of the last few days have subsided and I was really looking forward to climbing. Once again I checked the material, put on the shoes and then we started. The first moves were very nervous and I had to calm down so as not to make a mistake. Because the first pitch is rated 6b. After that it became easier and I quickly found the rhythm. The whole route consists of five towers, from which must be abseiled again and again. About 36 pitches long. In between, repeatedly abseil, pull off the rope, quickly pick up and continue climbing again. The difficulty was in the whole. Sure, you have to concentrate on climbing for 36 pitches at a time, but the pure climbing is not that hard (about 3 Sl 6b, otherwise easier). A sophisticated rope technique is also very important. I had two 50 meter ropes with me, one mostly in the small backpack. But I needed it for a rappel point at tower 2 and there was also a certain safety if the other rope would have suddenly got stuck somewhere.
The conditions were perfect and I stood exactly 1 hour 35 minutes later on the summit needle.
To the walk style:
Everything redpoint, except the bolted ladder (7a), in addition I secured myself twice with a sling, but I never loaded it and immediately took it back.
Important:
I did not change the route and climbed the route on the original line.
Despite saving time, I never left carabiners or slings in the rappels (always pulled in rope).
Text: Dani Arnold